The clothing of 1950s China offers a fascinating glimpse into a transformative era marked by social change and cultural evolution. As the country emerged from years of turmoil, fashion became a reflection of both tradition and modernity. This guide delves into the styles, materials, and influences that shaped the wardrobe of the time, revealing how clothing served as a canvas for identity and expression.
Readers can expect to explore the significance of various garments, from the iconic Mao suit to traditional attire, and understand their roles in everyday life and political symbolism. The guide will also highlight regional variations and the impact of historical events on fashion choices. By examining these elements, we can appreciate how clothing not only adorned the body but also narrated the story of a nation in flux.
Wearing History: Chinese Dress Since 1949
Culture and fashion are very much two sides of the same coin. Against a background of cultural, historical, and social change, this article explores how clothing fashion in China has changed since 1949 and interrelated with the dynamic cultures during these different periods.
Historical Context of Chinese Fashion
The establishment of the People’s Republic of China in 1949 marked a significant shift in clothing styles. Initially, the intelligentsia favored both Western-style suits and traditional Chinese robes, such as the cheongsam. However, as the political landscape evolved, so did the fashion, reflecting the ideological changes of the time.
The Evolution of Styles
Traditional Styles Began to Change
As new ideologies took hold, Western-style suits and traditional garments began to fade. The “Mao suit,” originally designed by Sun Yat-sen, became a symbol of the era. This single-breasted “People’s Suit” was characterized by sharp lapels and slanting pockets, predominantly in blue, grey, and black.
Influence of the Soviet Union
In the 1950s and early 60s, Chinese fashion was heavily influenced by Soviet styles. The “Lenin Coat,” with its double lines of buttons and slanting pockets, gained popularity. Women often wore platyes, a Russian term for a button-up dress, which featured round collars and pleated hemlines. These garments were typically made from cotton and adorned with floral or striped patterns.
The Role of Tailors
During this period, being a tailor was a coveted profession. Most clothing was handmade, and the ability to repair garments was highly valued. From 1954 to 1983, clothing was rationed through a coupon system, limiting the average person to just a few meters of fabric per year. This scarcity led to a culture of recycling and passing down clothing among family members.
Technical Features of 1950s Chinese Clothing
| Feature | Description |
|---|---|
| Materials | Predominantly cotton, with patterns like floral, tartan, and stripes. |
| Colors | Common colors included black, blue, and grey for durability. |
| Styles | Mao suits, Lenin coats, and platyes were prevalent. |
| Tailoring | Handcrafted garments were the norm, with an emphasis on repairability. |
| Rationing | Clothing was purchased with coupons, limiting variety and quantity. |
Types of Clothing in the 1950s
| Type | Description |
|---|---|
| Mao Suit | A symbol of the era, characterized by its simple design and practicality. |
| Lenin Coat | A double-breasted coat that reflected Soviet influence. |
| Platye | A button-up dress favored by women, often made from cotton. |
| Proletarian Wear | Clothing designed to be simple and functional, often recycled from old garments. |
| Military Uniforms | Became popular during the Cultural Revolution, emphasizing uniformity. |
The Cultural Revolution and Its Impact
The Cultural Revolution (1966-1976) further transformed Chinese fashion. Military uniforms became a symbol of admiration, and both men and women donned these outfits. The ideology of the time pushed for a singular dress style, with traditional and Western clothing being discouraged. Jewelry and makeup were also frowned upon, leading to a stark, utilitarian aesthetic.
The Arrival of Fantastic Garb
Post-Cultural Revolution, the late 1970s saw a dramatic shift in fashion. French designer Pierre Cardin’s fashion show in Beijing introduced bold, futuristic designs. This era marked the beginning of “fantastic garb,” with flared trousers and colorful clothing becoming popular. However, these styles were initially met with resistance from traditionalists.
The 1980s: A New Era of Fashion
By the 1980s, Western-style suits became fashionable among state leaders and the general populace. However, many wore these suits without understanding dress etiquette, often pairing them with inappropriate footwear. The film “Red Dresses Are in Fashion” in 1984 helped to shift perceptions, making stylish clothing more acceptable.
Conclusion
The evolution of Chinese fashion from 1949 to the present reflects the country’s complex socio-political landscape. From the utilitarian styles of the Mao era to the vibrant fashions of the 1980s, clothing has served as a canvas for cultural expression. The interplay between tradition and modernity continues to shape Chinese dress today.
FAQs
1. What was the significance of the Mao suit in Chinese fashion?
The Mao suit became a symbol of the new ideology in China, representing simplicity and practicality, and was widely adopted by the populace.
2. How did Soviet influence shape Chinese clothing in the 1950s?
Soviet styles, such as the Lenin Coat and platyes, became popular, reflecting the political alliance and cultural exchange between China and the Soviet Union.
3. What role did tailors play in 1950s China?
Tailors were highly valued as most clothing was handmade, and their ability to repair garments was crucial due to the scarcity of materials.
4. How did the Cultural Revolution affect clothing styles?
The Cultural Revolution promoted military uniforms and discouraged traditional and Western clothing, leading to a uniform dress style across the country.
5. What changes occurred in Chinese fashion during the 1980s?
The 1980s saw a shift towards Western-style suits and vibrant clothing, influenced by international fashion trends and a growing acceptance of diverse styles.